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The Man Who Ate the World: In Search of the Perfect Dinner
"A hilarious and insightful journey into the world of restaurant meals."―Mario Batali
"Nobody goes to restaurants for nutritional reasons. They go for the experience. And what price a really top experience?"
What price indeed? Fearlessly, and with great wit and verve, award-winning restaurant critic Jay Rayner goes in search of the perfect meal. From the Tokyo sushi chef who offers a toast of snake-infused liquor to close a spectacular meal, to Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas where Robuchon himself eagerly watches his guest's every mouthful, to seven three-star Michelin restaurants in seven days in Paris, Rayner conducts a whirlwind tour of high-end gastronomy that will thrill the heart―and stomach―of any armchair gourmand. Along the way, he uses his entrée into the restaurant world to probe the larger issues behind the globalization of dinner.
Riotously funny and shrewdly observed, The Man Who Ate the World is a fascinating look at the business and pleasure of fine dining.
"Nobody goes to restaurants for nutritional reasons. They go for the experience. And what price a really top experience?"
What price indeed? Fearlessly, and with great wit and verve, award-winning restaurant critic Jay Rayner goes in search of the perfect meal. From the Tokyo sushi chef who offers a toast of snake-infused liquor to close a spectacular meal, to Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas where Robuchon himself eagerly watches his guest's every mouthful, to seven three-star Michelin restaurants in seven days in Paris, Rayner conducts a whirlwind tour of high-end gastronomy that will thrill the heart―and stomach―of any armchair gourmand. Along the way, he uses his entrée into the restaurant world to probe the larger issues behind the globalization of dinner.
Riotously funny and shrewdly observed, The Man Who Ate the World is a fascinating look at the business and pleasure of fine dining.
288 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2008
29 people are currently reading
711 people want to read
About the author
Jay Rayner
19 books83 followersJay Rayner is a British journalist, writer and broadcaster born in 1966.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 124 reviews
December 18, 2009
I'm not sure what I expected from this book, but it surely wasn't what I received. Rayner is a snarky bastard, to be sure, but he spends a lot of time thinking about what he eats, and more importantly, why. A book chronicling a critic jetting to expensive restaurants around the world would get boring if all it did was describe the food. Instead, Rayner astutely recognizes that he is a unique position to see if 3 star restaurants are worth the sometimes insane expense he lays out. The disappointments seem to outnumber the triumphs, and it makes you feel for the people he mentions who have to save up for the chance to have a once-in-a-lifetime peak into the world of the moneyed by eating alongside them. In the end, the question is whether those disappointments are only a product of Rayner's largesse when it comes to eating out. I would say that perhaps the man who seeks the perfect meal can only end up disappointed, but in the end, Rayner seems to be at peace.
What a fantastic book.
What a fantastic book.
April 7, 2021
This is 100% hands down a love it or hate it book. There is no middle ground with this one, and I absolutely head over heels fell in love with it. And maybe Jay Rayner just a little bit.
First of all if you're not a "foodie" and the idea of throwing €€€ repeatedly at your lunch or dinner bill makes your eyes roll or makes you feel slightly ill, please do us all a favour and don't read this book because you will be in the hate camp.
There's no doubt about it, Jay Rayner is a bit of a snarky bollox who is lavished with opportunities that the majority of us could only begin to dream about. However, he is fully aware of and honest about this. He explicitly says throughout what he's wangled for free/under expenses and what has come out of his own pocket.
The book is broken down into cities on Jay's journey in search of the perfect dinner. While in these cities he visits a variety of high class restaurants and has a whole wide range of experiences. What I absolutely loved was his brutal honesty through it all. When talking about the food, he didn't just run along with the crowd and say every 3 star was the most amazing food he's ever had. He really showed that not all 3 star restaurants are equal and certainly not all are worth the money. A lesson we learnt in Barcelona visiting Disfrutar one day leaving in a bubble of excitement to then leaving Tickets devastated the following day almost in tears at forking out the same money for both experiences.
As well as detailing his meals he also looks at the food industry as a whole and within the cities he visits. He throws plenty of not so pretty glances at the food world, blogging, review, some chefs and even at times the ingredients.
What I loved most about the book was that despite having essentially the whole culinary world at his feet, there's no airs and graces about him. If it's mind-blowing, it's mind-blowing. If it tastes like actual crap or even mold as in one case, he says this. He also looked quite openly at his often disinterest or boredom when he questions has he had enough of this world.
Lastly, I listened to this on Audible and honestly think it's probably the best way to appreciate his snarky yet lovable character. Looking forward to moving on to the rest of his stuff shortly.
First of all if you're not a "foodie" and the idea of throwing €€€ repeatedly at your lunch or dinner bill makes your eyes roll or makes you feel slightly ill, please do us all a favour and don't read this book because you will be in the hate camp.
There's no doubt about it, Jay Rayner is a bit of a snarky bollox who is lavished with opportunities that the majority of us could only begin to dream about. However, he is fully aware of and honest about this. He explicitly says throughout what he's wangled for free/under expenses and what has come out of his own pocket.
The book is broken down into cities on Jay's journey in search of the perfect dinner. While in these cities he visits a variety of high class restaurants and has a whole wide range of experiences. What I absolutely loved was his brutal honesty through it all. When talking about the food, he didn't just run along with the crowd and say every 3 star was the most amazing food he's ever had. He really showed that not all 3 star restaurants are equal and certainly not all are worth the money. A lesson we learnt in Barcelona visiting Disfrutar one day leaving in a bubble of excitement to then leaving Tickets devastated the following day almost in tears at forking out the same money for both experiences.
As well as detailing his meals he also looks at the food industry as a whole and within the cities he visits. He throws plenty of not so pretty glances at the food world, blogging, review, some chefs and even at times the ingredients.
What I loved most about the book was that despite having essentially the whole culinary world at his feet, there's no airs and graces about him. If it's mind-blowing, it's mind-blowing. If it tastes like actual crap or even mold as in one case, he says this. He also looked quite openly at his often disinterest or boredom when he questions has he had enough of this world.
Lastly, I listened to this on Audible and honestly think it's probably the best way to appreciate his snarky yet lovable character. Looking forward to moving on to the rest of his stuff shortly.
July 30, 2011
Jay Rayner has written only one book -- this one -- and, if there is Mercy in the Universe, he will not write another, at least until he gets his head right. This is easily the most depressing book I have read in many years. Each chapter recounts a visit to a city which is "big" in the culinary world; each was more depressing than the last. The chapter on Las Vegas touched not only on the great food available in that city but on the falsity, the ostentatiousness, the unreality and pretense of the place. The chapter on Moscow was even darker, haunted by the role of organized crime in extorting protection money from restaurants, the plebian tastes of Russians, and the scarcity of quality food to cook and eat. The chapter on Dubai read more like an expose of the unconscionable living conditions of the international workers imported to build the opulent hotels and playgrounds for the global rich. So I quit. I gave him 120 pages; he can keep the rest. I almost never set aside a book once I have begun to read it. A willed optimism has allowed me to press on to the last page of some really poor reads. Rayner spent a decade as a newspaper reporter covering murder, war, pestilence, fraud and human misery. His next decade was as the restaurant critic for the London Observer. The poor fellow needs to get religion or take psychotropic drugs to improve the ugly myopism through which he sees the world. Until he does, I will neither buy nor read another of his books.
February 14, 2017
I loved everything about this. His snarky humor to his keen observations about the food industry as a whole. What makes a perfect meal? the food? the decor? the staff? the company? he makes a case for all. What would be my perfect meal? As a food lover, this was a fantastic read.
May 2, 2021
Jay Rayner, a prominent British food critic, wit and raconteur, embarks on a global quest for the prefect meal, a culinary adventure which takes him through countless Michelin-starred restaurants from Las Vegas to Paris, and many other cities besides. How terrible!
Mr Rayner is not a great respecter of reputations and does not pull any punches in this book. He is, however, the writer of some of the most entertaining restaurant reviews I have ever read, and his creative use of language is given free rein here.
There are a few moments of rare introspection, for example when he questions the impact on the environment of the world’s greatest chefs sourcing ingredients from all corners of the world, and has then to recognise that his own global voyage in search of the perfect meal has itself contributed in no small measure to carbon emissions - he makes a financial contribution to redress the impact of his considerable carbon footprint.
Although it is provocative and occasionally irritating, I found the book very entertaining from start to finish. I can also highly recommend the audiobook, which Mr Rayner himself narrates. 4.5 stars.
Mr Rayner is not a great respecter of reputations and does not pull any punches in this book. He is, however, the writer of some of the most entertaining restaurant reviews I have ever read, and his creative use of language is given free rein here.
There are a few moments of rare introspection, for example when he questions the impact on the environment of the world’s greatest chefs sourcing ingredients from all corners of the world, and has then to recognise that his own global voyage in search of the perfect meal has itself contributed in no small measure to carbon emissions - he makes a financial contribution to redress the impact of his considerable carbon footprint.
Although it is provocative and occasionally irritating, I found the book very entertaining from start to finish. I can also highly recommend the audiobook, which Mr Rayner himself narrates. 4.5 stars.
December 24, 2015
I liked the book when the author was dining alone (for the most part), as well as digressions about his personal life. I did not care for it at all when his friends, big name chefs and others appeared. So, perhaps 2.5 stars, but he seems like a nice guy, in spite of his $$$ meals coming off a bit as bragging. He does self-deprecation well. The travel narrative aspect was well done, although I'll disagree that New York is a wasteland for Indian food -- you just have to know where to look for it, unlike the decent fare available in the U. K. easily enough. As a matter of fact, now I'm hungry for a Gujarati thali, which I'd pay bucks for if I could find any in Seattle!
Recommended, though disappointed.
(note: he is the son of a famous British woman, Claire Rayner -- I was vaguely familiar with her name, but that's all)
Recommended, though disappointed.
(note: he is the son of a famous British woman, Claire Rayner -- I was vaguely familiar with her name, but that's all)
July 16, 2013
If you're any bit of a foodie than you are going to love this book. Rayner is witty and funny, at times self-depricating, which of course only adds to his humor. The stories of his adventures around the world at the best restaurants are entertaining, mesmerizing, and a little bit gluttonous. If you have absolutely zero appreciation for fine dining or high-class food than this book is probably not the book for you. But I enjoyed immensely and would recommend it to anyone who can enjoy the finer things in life.
February 13, 2018
Boy is he snarky but that's what makes this book so entertaining. I listened to the audiobook and Rayner narrates it himself. It's a really fun listen
August 12, 2009
I apologize in advance for this, but I refuse not to say it:
My goodness, Jay Rayner certainly is full of himself!
OK, now that that's out of my system (sorry again), let's get to it. This book is pretty ridiculous, and I mean that outside of Rayner's acknowledgment of his and the premise's ridiculousness. Even his criticism of others' pomposity comes off as pompous. He relishes pork dishes to the point of fetishism, and despite his attempt to dismiss his Jewish heritage as only genetic, it comes off as unpleasantly desperate, like, See me the Jewish man eating all this pork? I'm so transgressive! Aren't you in awe of me and my boundary-crossing culinary daring! Oooooh! And it's just gross.
Further, his near-complete inability to find a satisfactory meal at any of the restaurants he patronizes is so ugly. Perhaps the menus are all as poor as he claims, but it comes off as a refusal to like anything. How is the reader supposed to enjoy a book when its author didn't enjoy the project he (VOLUNTARILY) undertook to write it? I am not about to write a book about going out drinking--I don't have the stomach for too much alcohol, and bar-hopping is pretty high on my list of least-favorite activities, even though I like to go out (occasionally) and I love a good drink or three. Being a (self-proclaimed!) gluttonous food critic who's won awards for his writing does not make an eating-round-the-moneyed-world book the ideal undertaking.
Two grains of salt with which to take my review: First, I practice a vegan lifestyle, and found all his asides about "wasting the animal" on a bad dish if not offensive, then at least enragingly hypocritical. Second, as a recovering bulimic, all the prideful talk of binging gave me quite a few uncomfortable moments, culminating in a how-dare-you-you-motherfucker when his physical resulted in a "perfectly healthy" diagnosis. Christ almighty what the fuck is that about? Inflicting all that suffering on animals for your diet, and your diet causes you not to suffer one bit? Life is one slap in the face after another.
My goodness, Jay Rayner certainly is full of himself!
OK, now that that's out of my system (sorry again), let's get to it. This book is pretty ridiculous, and I mean that outside of Rayner's acknowledgment of his and the premise's ridiculousness. Even his criticism of others' pomposity comes off as pompous. He relishes pork dishes to the point of fetishism, and despite his attempt to dismiss his Jewish heritage as only genetic, it comes off as unpleasantly desperate, like, See me the Jewish man eating all this pork? I'm so transgressive! Aren't you in awe of me and my boundary-crossing culinary daring! Oooooh! And it's just gross.
Further, his near-complete inability to find a satisfactory meal at any of the restaurants he patronizes is so ugly. Perhaps the menus are all as poor as he claims, but it comes off as a refusal to like anything. How is the reader supposed to enjoy a book when its author didn't enjoy the project he (VOLUNTARILY) undertook to write it? I am not about to write a book about going out drinking--I don't have the stomach for too much alcohol, and bar-hopping is pretty high on my list of least-favorite activities, even though I like to go out (occasionally) and I love a good drink or three. Being a (self-proclaimed!) gluttonous food critic who's won awards for his writing does not make an eating-round-the-moneyed-world book the ideal undertaking.
Two grains of salt with which to take my review: First, I practice a vegan lifestyle, and found all his asides about "wasting the animal" on a bad dish if not offensive, then at least enragingly hypocritical. Second, as a recovering bulimic, all the prideful talk of binging gave me quite a few uncomfortable moments, culminating in a how-dare-you-you-motherfucker when his physical resulted in a "perfectly healthy" diagnosis. Christ almighty what the fuck is that about? Inflicting all that suffering on animals for your diet, and your diet causes you not to suffer one bit? Life is one slap in the face after another.
March 30, 2014
I would hate to be a chef in any restaurant reviewed by Jay Rayner. In this book he sets out on a quest to find the perfect meal. In his exhaustive search through the world's prestigious gastronomic establishments (from Las Vegas to Paris and everywhere in between) and despite tireless and seemingly limitless consumption, his holy grail ultimately eludes him. Considering the lofty heights of discernment to which his palate has ascended, I think this has more to do with the fact that he's impossible to please than to any consistent inferiority of the meals he experiences.
He doesn't hate everything. Some things he positively enjoys, for example a woodcock presented in what he says is the traditional style "the head bisected and impaled on the breast by its long, thin beak". "It also tasted nice" he goes on to say "the delicate skull crunching beneath my teeth to release the soft brains".
Having observed Mr Rayner's sardonic and scathing style as one of a trio of "celebrity" food critics on the BBC program "Masterchef: the Professionals", I suspect it's not just the brains of woodcocks he enjoys crushing. Fortunately his acerbic wit and humour deliver this book from being one you want to hurl across the room and it is, despite itself, an entertaining read.
He doesn't hate everything. Some things he positively enjoys, for example a woodcock presented in what he says is the traditional style "the head bisected and impaled on the breast by its long, thin beak". "It also tasted nice" he goes on to say "the delicate skull crunching beneath my teeth to release the soft brains".
Having observed Mr Rayner's sardonic and scathing style as one of a trio of "celebrity" food critics on the BBC program "Masterchef: the Professionals", I suspect it's not just the brains of woodcocks he enjoys crushing. Fortunately his acerbic wit and humour deliver this book from being one you want to hurl across the room and it is, despite itself, an entertaining read.
July 15, 2012
rayner is undoubtedly one of the most gifted food writers around: he is funny, greedy (idefinitely a good quality for a food writer), straightforward and most important of all knows what he is talking about when it comes to eating. if you love his word of mouth blog entries, guardian columns and various appearances on tv, radio etc. there is no chance that you won't enjoy this. in his 2008 book rayner questions the possibility of hunting down the perfect dinner at the most notable fine dining restaurants over the world. he visits such cities as dubai, new york, moscow, tokyo etc. and reports with his charming style on his experiences. I laughed out loud and ridiculed myself in public numerous times while reading the book, especially in the moscow chapter (I know I'll go back to reading it at some point). I'd have given that fifth star if I didn't get the feeling, towards the very ends, that he somehow got bored, or lost the inspiration. this should not stop anyone from the reading the whole lot though, wonderful summer read..
October 1, 2009
I found this book and the voice of Jay Rayner very enjoyable to read. The premise of the book is his search for a perfect high-end restaurant meal. He travels to Moscow, Dubai, New York, Tokyo, London and Paris in his search. He is funniest when he has a bad meal, but he does a lot of reflecting on the whole world of high-end restaurants from the blogs, reviews, chefs, ingredients, decor, patrons and personnel. He goes off on many tangents, but he doesn't get lost in them, and the narrative makes a compelling, if analytical, memoir. I didn't find him arrogant, as many others have, however, he is opinionated. But then he is a restaurant critic; he's paid to be opinionated in a definitive manner.
February 5, 2017
I like to read about food, and I found the author's writing style to be enjoyable and conversational. I really enjoyed reading the descriptions of the meals that the author has, and drew personal inspiration from both the ingredients and cooking styles as well as the restaurant design, interiors and menu style in each different setting. I read this on a long day of travel and found it immersing but at the same time easy to pop down at a moment's notice and then to pick up again when needed. A good read.
August 24, 2009
I was surprised at how much I liked this book. I picked it up expecting to not like it, because he kind of annoyed me on Top Chef Masters, but I enjoyed it immensely. And I'm very jealous of his little project to find the best fine dining experience there is. He's pompous, but amusing, which makes the former okay. Now, if I were to see him on Top Chef, I'd appreciate him.
If good food photography is "food porn," then this book is "food erotica." I could read his descriptions of meals anytime.
If good food photography is "food porn," then this book is "food erotica." I could read his descriptions of meals anytime.
August 16, 2011
Jay Rayner, the restaurant critic for The Observer, goes around the world to investigate and document the globalization of high end gastronomy, in search of the perfect meal. He starts in Las Vegas, on to Moscow, Dubai, Tokyo, New York, London, Paris. Wretched excess? You betcha. It will make your most self-indulgent treat seem positively abstemious by comparison. The high notes are spectacular, but there are an almoat equal number of memorably awful experiences. It's great fun.
October 5, 2008
Fun book about high end dining around the world. I also loved his commentaries on eating "authentic cuisine" and on other diners in these establishments. I couldn't agree more.
Also about these chefs who blend odd things to be edgy. There was a line, "I was concerned when the chef spooned the lavender ice cream into the green bean soup." Umm yeah that would concern me...
Also about these chefs who blend odd things to be edgy. There was a line, "I was concerned when the chef spooned the lavender ice cream into the green bean soup." Umm yeah that would concern me...
December 16, 2020
Reflections and lessons learned:
Vegas! Russia! London and New York!! Culinary adventures of the restaurants of the world whilst not holding back... just what I wanted - yummy...!
Vegas! Russia! London and New York!! Culinary adventures of the restaurants of the world whilst not holding back... just what I wanted - yummy...!
March 23, 2022
Rayner gives a report on his adventures trying to find the best dining options in several cities known for having ample food options (Las Vegas, Tokyo, Moscow, Dubai, New York, London and Paris). He interjects his report on this quest with recollections from his past and explains he loves food and why he has such fond memories of some foods, or is repelled by others.
All in all a very amusing read with some funny anecdotes about food in general. The author is a self-confessed curmudgeon, which helps to take the sting out his more acerbic critiques of some foods he is served. This applied particularly to the last chapter where his quest "compels" him to eat at seven restaurants in seven days all with three Michelin stars and always ordering the degustation menu when offered (it sounded dangerous and he didn't seem to get much joy out the experience either).
A very amusing to read, and surprisingly, going on such an adventure is not too taxing on the liver as it turned out (he includes a report on post fact visit to his physician)!
All in all a very amusing read with some funny anecdotes about food in general. The author is a self-confessed curmudgeon, which helps to take the sting out his more acerbic critiques of some foods he is served. This applied particularly to the last chapter where his quest "compels" him to eat at seven restaurants in seven days all with three Michelin stars and always ordering the degustation menu when offered (it sounded dangerous and he didn't seem to get much joy out the experience either).
A very amusing to read, and surprisingly, going on such an adventure is not too taxing on the liver as it turned out (he includes a report on post fact visit to his physician)!
December 22, 2018
Another Jay Rayner coup. Very readable, funny and well observed. Rayner is careful not to disappear up himself despite having a job which involves eating food in cushy places. He is careful to point out he is on a budget set by his newspaper. It's one I could easily live by but I suppose if your job is to judge the best of the best from the middle of the menu and the wine list, it must chafe a little.
His visit to Russia was as odd as his visit to Vegas.
His visit to Russia was as odd as his visit to Vegas.
December 1, 2022
3,5 / 4 stars. An entertaining food critic’s memoir from the man who describes himself as ‘promiscuous at the fridge’. This is not a perfect book — the New York chapter was such a snooze that it made me toss the book aside for a couple of months. However, Jay Rayner writes with such phenomenal wit and ease that even the less captivating parts of his journey to find the best meal in the world had me asking for seconds.
May 14, 2024
Truly have to re-read this as food and travel writing is one of my top genres. I really enjoyed bits of it, the descriptions of taste and smell while critiquing the dishes, the thoughts on fine dining sustainability etc, but at times it got too repetitive along with too much name dropping and I zoomed out.
However, I listened to it and came to the conclusion that this book just wasn’t suitable for the audio format. Hence the re-read. But 3,5 🌟 for the audio.
However, I listened to it and came to the conclusion that this book just wasn’t suitable for the audio format. Hence the re-read. But 3,5 🌟 for the audio.
May 17, 2021
I'm a big Rayner Fan, and this one has a bit of everything. Not what you might expect. While there is a lot of travel and foodie fun, it's also got a lot of philisophical introspection and personal info about Rayners life. If you love Rayners work this is very good and much better than I expected. (not a slight, a knew it would be good but it was much better)
September 19, 2022
Jay Rayner developed a taste for food, but not without understanding what isn’t. Taking a journey he to over 12 years ago, and I was pulled along as if we were doing it today. Had a great way with his backhanded compliments and criticism. Gotta love it. He did a bit with Phil Rosenthal on his trip to London, so I was introduced in this way, and glad I was.
March 29, 2023
3.5 probably, in reality. I liked it but skim read some bits when I just felt like it was going off topic/into a history lesson. Enjoyed Vegas and Paris chapters in particular. Didn’t enjoy Russia.
If readers don’t “get” Jay Rayner or haven’t eaten at very nice restaurants I don’t see them enjoying this book at all
If readers don’t “get” Jay Rayner or haven’t eaten at very nice restaurants I don’t see them enjoying this book at all
January 23, 2024
In my opinion, I give this 3 and a half stars because I feel like the content can be summarized into a much shorter explanation, and maybe I can add more stories about food in my fave chapter. I think that I started to have hope for the book was in the Tokyo chapter.
But at the end, you will not fully enjoy this book if you are not a foodie.
But at the end, you will not fully enjoy this book if you are not a foodie.
June 16, 2017
A lovely, tempting culinary literary journey with a writer who appeals to my sense of humour. This book had me laughing out loud in places, and dashing to the fridge for left-overs as he stirred my appetite.
November 12, 2020
Deliciously snarky.
“It is one of the glories of the human condition that we are made to be addicted to food. If we don’t get a fix at least once or twice a day we are mad, bad, and dangerous to know, and a little after that, we are dead.”
“It is one of the glories of the human condition that we are made to be addicted to food. If we don’t get a fix at least once or twice a day we are mad, bad, and dangerous to know, and a little after that, we are dead.”
January 18, 2021
An enjoyable romp around the world of Michelin Star dining as Rayner goes in pursuit of the perfect meal, the perfect restaurant experience, and explores his (and society's) relationship with food, and the similarities and differences of dining around the globe.
April 5, 2021
I began to like Jay Rayner more and more after every page. He is fully aware of the preposterous nature of his profession, and the sheer amounts of wank in Michelen starred high-dining restaurants, but fully embraces it for what it is. He likes to eat good food. It's that simple. He is also hilarious. My immediate comparison would be Charlie Brooker's collections of his column, but that would be unfair. Rayner is more mature, succinct and biting, without being crass. I loved this book. Just don't do what I did and read it during lockdown, you'll be banging on the doors of closed restaurants in no time.
July 22, 2023
A bit dated as it was published in 2008, but still an entertaining, snarky look at high-end restaurants around the world. Interesting to note that he had same reaction to Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas as we did only last year. It has not improved. A most disappointing experience.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 124 reviews