What the Sterns did for road food, Pat Willard does for festive American group eating in this exploration of our national cuisine, with a never-before-published WPA manuscript as her guide. In America Eats! Pat Willard takes readers on a journey into the regional nooks and crannies of American cuisine where WPA writers—including Eudora Welty, Saul Bellow, Ralph Ellison, and Nelson Algren, among countless others—were dispatched in 1935 to document the roots of our diverse culinary cuisine. With the unpublished WPA manuscript as her guide, Willard visits the sites of American food’s past glory to rediscover the vibrant foundation of America’s traditional cuisine. She visits a booyah cook-off in Minnesota, a political feast in Mississippi, a watermelon festival in Oklahoma, and a sheepherders ball in Idaho, to name a few. Featuring recipes and never-before-seen photos, including those from the WPA by Dorothea Lange, Ben Shahn, and Marion Post Wolcott, America Eats! is a glowing celebration of American food, past and present.
What a project this must have been! Back in the 30s, there was a WPA program for writers. Many of them all over the country. The government wanted a comprehensive look at then-current trends in American eating. The writers had been assigned to cover local festivals and other group functions and describe the food and cultures.
That project was put on hold and the articles were filed away somewhere. Pat Willard happened to stumble across them doing research for a different book.
The book contains some of the articles written by the original WPA writers (Stetson Kennedy and Zora Neale Hurston among them); Willard traveled the country looking for the same types of events to compare then and now. There are a few recipes.
I can't get enough of the real deal - the articles written during the WPA project about things going on in that current time. I don't know why... It's just fascinating to me. The present stuff, it's done well, and clearly, again, this must have been a huge project just trying to tie everything together. Maybe our gatherings are just not as fun anymore.
I guess now I need to get The Food of a Younger Land and compare.
The premise of this book is absolute gold. The author unearths a half-finished WPA project to document American food gatherings and food folkways around the country. All in all, this felt like a massive undertaken of a neglected topic, and I'm very grateful the author wrote the book.
What worked: * I'm so grateful the author saw value in this project--it deserves the care she gave it and she made it accessible to those of us who are unlikely to be able to access the original documents. * I learned a lot and saw aspect of American foodways that I would never have heard about otherwise, including some I'd like to track down. * Sometimes she knew exactly what questions I would have asked, had she been in front of me, and answered them. The sections on brunswick stew, booyah, and burgoo were especially helpful.
What didn't work as well: * This book shifts in and out of editorial commentary, exposition, and narrative, as well as between the author's original content and that from the WPA writers. Those shifts were not always clear. * I wish the author might have been more judicious about pulling quotes from the original texts to make up for some of the unevenness in quality. * I didn't entirely understand the big picture organizational structure of the book, and it would have been helpful to perhaps explain that up front, and remind us as we make our way through the book. Was it geographical? Was it anthropological? Having a guiding structure be more evident would have helped me know how to categorize what I was learning.
Using the unpublished WPA American eating project by the same name, Pat Willard travels the country to seek out the places visited by WPA writers including Eudora Welty, Ralph Ellison, Saul Bellow, and many more, dispatched in 1935 to document the roots of America's culinary history. A sort of period piece for America and its cuisine and eating places between its two great wars (not that either of them were really great). Includes recipes and never-before-seen photos by such WPA luminaries as Jessica Lange and Marion Post Wolcott. Historians and dedicated foodies might appreciate this book but it was slow going for me, plus I would love to have seen more photos from that period - the WPA archives should be brimming with them.
The book started out quite interesting with the author tracking down some of the traditions she found written in the WPA papers. However the book tended to drag on a bit and I lost interest as it went on and on.
During the Great Depression, many programs were created by the Federal Government to provide jobs for those who had none. We are still benefitting today from the fruits of that labor which created many public buildings, roads, bridges and parks. One project, however, never saw the light of day.
The “America Eats!” project was about traditional American food. Out-of-work writers were assigned to write about the events in their communities and the food that was served at them. The final document was not meant to be a cookbook. It was more akin to a documentation of regional foods made by non-professional cooks and served at regional gatherings such as fairs, church socials and harvest festivals.
Author Pat Willard, who stumbled on to the project while reading a book for research, was intrigued enough to visit the Library of Congress where many of the original manuscripts are stored. Reading the surviving documents inspired her to make a cross-country culinary tour, visiting the places and events written about in “America Eats!” to find out if they still existed and if so, how they had changed if at all.
She was heartened to discover that many of the local events mentioned in America Eats! are still going on albeit with a few modern changes. Squirrel meat, once the main ingredient in Brunswick stew, has been replaced by poultry, beef and pork due to the dangers of Mad Squirrel Disease (who knew?). She traces the evolution of the foodie culture in Washington State from the local harvest festivals mentioned in America Eats!, which are still going on.
Other local gatherings never made it to the 21st century. The traditional southern barbecues that were once mandatory for political events have disappeared. The mile long trenches filled with smoldering wood have fallen victim to zoning ordinances forbidding them on public land. Tobacco, once an important crop in North Carolina, is being replaced by vineyards that have led to new festivals celebrating wine.
Each chapter covers a particular type of event such as rodeos, funerals, harvest festivals and social clubs, to name a few. A relevant essay from “America Eats!” is followed by the author’s own experience followed by more essays and occasionally, recipes. Because each essay was penned by a different author, the reader is able to get a sense of the local customs and culture as they were experienced by the people living at that time.
The book begins and ends with what can only be called rants about American cooking. Ms. Willard is rather defensive about our indigenous cuisine. In the first chapter she defends its shortcomings compared to European cuisines and then in the last chapter laments its demise thanks to the entry of women into the workforce leaving them no time to cook.
This would be a much better book without the author’s long-winded opinions of American cooking. If you excise the first half of the beginning chapter and all of the last chapter, you have a wonderful book about Americans, their customs and their food, past and present.
America Eats! was one of the many WPA projects created to put people to work during the Great Depression era. In brief, the idea was to go out and document not just Americans' foods, but also the social gatherings, cultural mores, and events that defined American food. The project was broken down into regional segments, and writers were assigned to write up the various parts. Some of these writers went on to become famous; others just went back to their regular jobs when the project was shut down (Congress refused to continue its funding, thus cutting it off. Imagine if Congress had actually funded it and allowed it to be completed, the national treasure we would have now). Some fragments of the manuscript survive in the Library of Congress; many are likely still locked up in local and state archives, many even undiscovered.
The author found parts of the document, and along with those parts, set out to see if she could find many of these places and food gatherings. From chuck wagon meals to funeral meals to fish fries, she spent a year on the road to see what real American homemade cooking was, and more importantly, the social events and gatherings that were the main reason for the meals. Whether it was a fundraiser or a lodge social event, what she found was a diverse culinary experience of people coming together. And sadly, it is an experience that may be facing extinction in our modern times.
The book alternates between the author's narrative and fragments from the WPA writings, making for a very interesting picture of the United States from coast to coast. The WPA writings include customs, descriptions of events, and some recipes. In some cases, the author included recipes that are close to an original in order to give readers a sense of the real thing. The book does have some amusing moments, but it also has some moving moments along with some serious commentary on contemporary American society along the way. Personally, I cannot help but wonder what would happen if, by some great miracle, a new national works project was formed, and a new generation of writers went out to document the American food gathering experience today? What, if anything, would they find?
The book does have some small passages that go a bit too long, slowing down the reading experience. It is the only reason I gave it four stars. However, this is a book worth reading. It is a book you may want to read in small bits, savor parts of it even. And it is a book that may make you want to go out and find a local church supper, or a fish fry, or maybe, just maybe, a pie social.
I heard about this book in conjunction with Mark Kurlansky's The Food of a Younger Land, and was completely intrigued with the idea of the WPA papers on food from Depression-era America. I love all information on regional food, and this seemed like the epitome of food folklore books.
Pat Willard's book was intended to be more of a personal journey to find out if these food traditions are still in existence, with actual essays from the original project included in the narrative. I think, however, I was expecting something slightly different. To start, the WPA project wasn't intended so much to collect information on American eating habits, but on American community gatherings and the food that is served at them. This is also a completely fascinating topic for me, but a little different than what I'd been looking for. A lot of the essays focused more on the activity, with the food almost as an afterthought. And food served for groups can be very different than food served in homes, so titling a project "America Eats!" seemed slightly faulty to me. Anyway, that's not the fault of the book, but just something odd to me.
I also felt a little mislead at the author's portions of her search for these festivals. Her personal narrative seemed almost completely... impersonal, much like the original essays written. I guess I'd expected more of her own observations and adventures, but the essays didn't include much of that - just a report of the different events and communities and the food served at them. She also clearly has a political message about the state of American food and the loss of much of our food culture, which I ultimately agree with but I wasn't really in the mood to read about it through the entire book.
I realize that most of my issues with the book aren't really the author's fault - just a difference in what I was expecting to read. My problems with it were that she often seemed to adopt a false "folksiness" in her writing that seemed a bit off to me, and the organization of each chapter was rather disjointed, but overall, the book was really interesting and it was so funny to see just how writing and speaking styles have changed in the past 60+ years.
During the Depression, our government tasked WPA writers with a project to investigate regional food cultures and write essays documenting "American cuisine." This is probably my dream job. Sounds amazingly fun.
The project was never completed, though most of the manuscripts still exist in various archives. Pat Willard's book collects many of the original essays and then splices in her contemporary investigation into the ongoing regional food festivals, particular food habits, and traditional dishes. The original essays were fun to read, mostly to see how much things have changed and how contemporary understandings of race and culture have advanced since back in the 30s. Some of Willard's essays were also interesting, I liked the one on "booya" in Minnesota especially well, but overall the book seemed as unfinished as the original WPA project. The essays on the whole were disconnected from each other and there was little to guide the reader from one place to another and little attention to theme. That said, it was a fun read, best for digesting in little spurts before bed or while commuting.
I enjoyed this book because it combines three of my favorite topics: history, travel, and food. In the 1930's, the writers of the WPA went out across America to compile a culinary history of the country. They went to fairs, church suppers, community events, and other events to learn about and document American cooking and eating. The final work, which was to be titled "America Eats," was never published, and the manuscripts remained in various archives in Washington DC and across the country. Pat Willard used excerpts from those manuscripts as the basis for this book. She visits many of the locations mentioned in the original text to see if the culinary traditions are still upheld or if they've changed. The book includes the original text and Willard's reflections on what she discovered in the twenty-first century. Obviously, many traditions have disappeared, but others remain, perhaps in a slightly different form. This book reminds me of Jane & Michael Stern, with an extra helping of history and sociology. It reminds the reader of how food brings people together, often across political and cultural divides.
Many Americans do not realize what the Federal Government did during the depression. Government did create jobs. In addition to the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) there was the Works Progress Administration (WPA). The WPA funded artists, writers, musicians and academics to provide artwork and 'papers' on various aspects of America. This book is about one of those projects. The WPA funded the writing of articles on 'American' cuisine at the time. The author uses those articles as a starting point into what is going on today. She attempted to visit the events and fairs about which the WPA writers had written. Many of them were no longer in existence. However, several still exist in some form. What the author realizes is that the events were not so much about food as about the socialization that took place around the food.
I've been reading this book over the course of the last couple months, getting in a few pages or even just a few paragraphs over lunch breaks at work. It's a fascinating look at our food traditions, past and present. The book contains excerpts from a WPA project that collected regional tales of foodways along with a contemporary writer's view of what has become of those traditions. For me, the best part was the excerpts--they were usually written by an author from the area so there was something about them that you could really...sink your teeth into. I loved the variety of the writing as well--it ranged from straight reporting to creative narrative. Willard's contributions to the book were vital though as the excerpts did leave me wondering what had become of some of these traditions.
Warning: Do not read while you are hungry! Except even when you are full, it would be hard not to want to taste so much of the wonderful food talked about in this book. Even more, to associate with such interesting people. Alas, a lot of that is gone from the days when these feasts and get togethers happened, but I still think there is much to be said about social eating customs and recipes, and I love getting together over food no matter what! This was such a great idea, and I'm glad the author was able to save many of these writings and put them together in such a great book! If you love food and interesting characters you will love this book.
The author found a manuscript from a Works Projects Administration project from the 1930s and 1940s that was meant to document American foodways from the period. She followed up by trying to go to many of the places and kinds of events that the book describes. Willard is charmingly and appallingly omnivorous. I think the parts I liked best were her visits with the Mississippi Choctaw family to learn more about mourning practices, and her experience with the cowboy re-enactors. The book was engaging, because I always like books about how people eat, but I also sometimes felt like she was trying to gross out the readers.
"Make-work" federal programs in the 1930's included surveys of eating habits in various parts of the U.S. Many of the reports from those surveys survive. Pat Willard covers much of the same ground to see who's eating what, especially in communal settings, these days. She presents excerpts from the old reports next to lively accounts of her own culinary adventures, and the result offers painless lessons in local history and geography, along with the news about local food choices and related customs. Portland gets its share of attention, very entertainingly.
I looked forward to reading this book, which I received as a first-read. Unfortunately, I am unable to finish it due to the writing style.
While I quite enjoyed the original WPA selections included in the collection, I did not find the author's own writing to be as inviting. At the fairs and festivals the author attends, the participants and other people in attendance are often portrayed as oafish or country or otherwise not as intelligent as the author. This writing style becomes annoying quickly.
This book delves into some of my favorite topics; food, American history and road trips. In the late 30s the WPA commissioned writers to cover regional cuisine and eating habits; things like county fairs, barbecues, etc. The work was never published. In this book, the author revisits these regions to determine if these habits and cuisines still exist, and if not, how things have changed. I confess that I skimmed a few sections, but overall it is an interesting read. The glossary of diner slang in the chapter on urban eating habits is priceless!
Some great essays capturing a moment in time (loved the Iowa thresher's dinner story), some too long, and too much focus of the author's travels around the country (which I didn't even realize would be included when I added this to my list). There are whole books devoted to regional food festivals, and while I get that Willard was trying to "recreate" the trail of some of the WPA writers, I just didn't care to read about her experiences so I ended up skimming some.
While the subject held my interest, the organization of the book left something to be desired. The essays seemed to be jumbled together with a few recipes and a modest bit of commentary. I didn't know what to expect when turning the page. Making the content of the chapters more consistent and orderly would have created a stronger book.
With a delightful and loving style, Pat Willard brings to life a nearly forgotten WPA project started in the midst of the Great Depression that documents the food of America. Contributors to the project include Eudora Welty, Saul Bellow, Ralph Ellison, Dorothea Lange and Ben Shanhn. Don't miss this wonderful chronicle of who we are and what we eat.
This was the first book in our foodie book club, and I really enjoyed it! Willard lovingly took us back to the early days of eating in America. From squirrel stew to a hoof-to-tail eating, I now have a better appreciation for where American cuisine stemmed--from all over the world! Like Americans, our food is decidedly a hodgepodge of different cultures and traditions.
The author, using an old WPA writing project as a guide, goes in search of the cuisine of yesteryear. More informative and comprehensive books have been written. This collection of recipes, essays and photographs is fine to flip through, but it's not valuable as a resource.
This was really interesting! I'd never known about the America Eats WPA project, so it was great to read some of those writings that otherwise might not have seen the light of day. The author's following in their footsteps made for an interesting contrast, too, of how things have changed and how things have stayed the same.
This book was great to read right after I read The Food of a Younger Land - and it had the wrap up at the end of the book that was missing from 'Younger Land'.
Fascinating if you're into this sort of thing. I would have liked a few more recipes, and maybe photos of the specific occasions that were described, but overall, a neat look into a different world.